Tuesday, June 3, 2014
Day 18 SWEET HOME
I have really needed this trip for my mind, for my art, for my heart, for my family. But it is so GOOD to be home. I must return to Berlin some time soon, as I have yet to taste a Currywurst. It's good to have goals.
Day 17 LOST IN TRANSIT
Not much to report here unless you are
interested to know how I nearly smashed my laptop over the head of the oaf who
was sitting next to me from Zurich to Singapore… but I’d prefer you to think
that I enjoyed every minute of this trip.
Thursday, May 29, 2014
Day 16 AUF WIEDERSEHEN BERLIN
I leave Berlin tonight and there are so
many things I haven’t seen yet - I haven’t had my currywurst either! The picture above is a photograph that is in the bedroom of the apartment. I have
grown quite fond of it – beauty is everywhere.
I really wanted to see the Hamburger
Bahnof before I left. It is a museum for contemporary art in an old train station: worth the journey across town. The building itself has a divine symmetry and
the work inside is varied and engaging.
I think Andy Warhol’s enourmous sparkly
portrait of Joseph Beuys could be a pivotal work to illustrate the spirit of
the place. I am much impressed by Warhol after seeing the works here. I had
assumed that he owed his success to his audacity. But looking at these works I
see an artist who is challenged and connected and searching. There are not just
portraits here but the electric chair works, which seems to be a conversation
between himself and Rauchenberg (who also uses the blue chair in works of the same
year). There are also some painterly foundations for his screen prints.
I only had time then for a quick peek at
the small but hard-hitting Victor Man show at the Deutscher Bank KunstHall. It
gave me an insight into how contemporary painting can retain an exquisite
quality in terms of colour and handling and still sit comfortably in a
contemporary ‘conceptual’ setting by adopting sophisticated themes and innovative
lighting. The room was dark and the spotlights on the works were angled in such
a way (from directly above the works) that the light grazed the surface of the
paint. The paint glowed so intensely that it almost seemed to be a black light
and fluorescent paint… but I think it was simply the artist’s confident use of
colour and tone.
And now time to go back to the apartment and pack up. It is funny how your mind does this to you at the end of a trip... but I am ready to go home now. Auf Weidersehen Europe. I will be back soon.
Day 15 AI WEI WEI, BERLIN BIKINI & THE POLAR BEARS
Inspired as I was by Ai Wei Wei at the bunker yesterday,
I wanted to visit his major show at the Martin Gropius Bau. I have always been
a little mystified by Ai Wei Wei and though I am aware of his huge global success
- I was not entirely sure why. I have no doubts now. This man is a powerhouse
of art. That he has managed to crash through oppressive rails and communicate
meaningfully to an international community makes him all the more powerful.
Every work is fascinating and inventive and there is no sign of derivative or
lackluster that sometimes afflicts sensational artists.
One work is a series of Han Dynasty (202BC
– 220AD) vases that he has painted with modern automobile paint to illustrate
how modern technologies are wiping out the valuable past. How average the
actual vessels look now – all chic and shiny… and this is exactly the point.
He has been imprisoned for his liberal
ideas and an exact replica of his detention cell has been reconstructed here so
you can feel what it was like. As you exit you can watch security video of
yourself that was captured from all manner of angles unbeknownst to you while
you were inspecting the space. You get a genuine feeling of personal invasion.
In the afternoon I head out to the new
Berlin Bikini which is a shopping mall that exhibits up and coming designers in
‘concept’ boxes. It is situated right next to the Tiergarten and famous Berlin zoo
and because I have no particular agenda – a whim took me to visit the zoo.
It is an exquisite place – if one could
combine the Sydney Botanic Gardens with Taronga Zoo – this would approximate
it. The gardens are lush and abundant with spring flowers and the zoo is
exotic. The lion stood up and roared just for me; and the polar bears (eisbär) sat long enough for me to sketch them. There were a couple of
newborn monkeys that kept my attention for a long time – and animals that I had
never seen before such as the Stachelschwein which is like a wombat with
spines.
I was determined to have a currywurst today
but I just can’t bring myself to – pork sausage has never been my favourite. So
I have a schnitzel and salad and head home to pack. I promise to currywust
tomorrow as soon as I see a stall.
Wednesday, May 28, 2014
Day 14 THE BOROS BUNKER
Last night I woke in the middle of the
night to hear a scratching noise. I flicked on the light. It was coming from
the wardrobe… a mouse? No! Please no. No – it’s coming from the corner… what IS
IT? This went on for a comical 5 minutes as I dashed about the room in my
underpants unable to detect the source of the sound as the sound started to increase
in intensity. I looked up just in time to
dodge the falling lampshade. It had slowly ripped off the frame – how will I
explain this?
In the morning I had an appointment at the
Boros Bunker. This was a difficult appointment to secure as I had not planned well
enough in advance and when I realized I had to make a booking the website
showed that they were booked out until the end of July. After pleading with them over the phone they revealed the exact time they would update the website with any cancellations and I was thus able to nab a precious spot.
The Sammlung Boros is a private collection
of contemporary work owned by the Boros Family. They started collecting in the
early 90s but had nowhere to house and show the work. They looked for a long
time to find a suitable place.
This bunker is the most weird and incredible
building in itself. It was essentially a bomb shelter for citizens but it is
entirely above ground. The reason for this is that Hitler wanted the people to
see the building and for it to make them feel safe. This was a misconception on
his part as despite its fortitude it is, in effect, a monument to fear. In
order for it to withstand a bombing, the walls are 3m thick with concrete and
rebar. This depth meant little to me until I saw a section of the ceiling that
the Boros family had had to cut out to make allowances for access to their home
(that they built on the roof). 3m is a great deal of concrete.
A similar bomb shelter was directly hit by
a bomb in another area of Berlin and the worst physical implications to the
people inside were a temporary loss of hearing and some bleeding noses. In this
bunker we can see another staircase innovation: scissor staircases. The
ceilings are low and yet calculating the angle at which the stairs run between
the floors, the engineers were able to install two staircases (one above the
other, per floor) I’m still not entirely sure how this works but although you
could see the two levels of stairs – there was still enough headroom. The idea
is that double the capacity of people can enter the bunker in an emergency.
After marveling at the design we are told that it is a direct imitation of a
concept designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Wow.
After the war the Russians used the bunker
as a prison and after the Berlin wall came down it was a venue for raves and
fetishistic sex parties until the council shut it down (there was little
ventilation, few exits and no toilet facilities) which made it dangerous for
the extreme activities going on inside. At this time it went up for private
sale and soon after the Boros family ‘salvaged’ it. The walls themselves tell a
hundred stories from the original phosphorescent painted arrows to the fluoro
graffiti from the 90s parties. I would hazard a guess that many of the artists
who exhibit there now had been there before as part of the edgy Berlin 90s scene.
And I haven’t even begun to talk about the
art… so cool! All the works are challenging and cover a range of themes such as
the big bang, utopia, parallel universes and the possibility of 11 dimensions.
It is such a mind fuck. I love it. As we near the third level we can smell
something cooking… is it popcorn? Our guide smiles and asks us to wait and see.
It IS popcorn - a cart that has been
popping corn since the artwork was installed – in May 2012. It is in a large
room and it is FULL of popcorn – we are encouraged to step in it – to climb to
the top and grab a fresh piece to eat if we like! Oh my kids would LOVE this.
There is also a work by Ai Wei Wei here –
it is a tree but it has been recreated from hundreds of trees – the wood
collected from all over China and pieced together here. Ai Wei Wei is still not
permitted to leave China – so assistants installed it.
It is the home of the Boros family
and only 12 English speakers are permitted every 90 mins and only 3 days a week. Our guide reiterates that we are, in effect, walking around in the family's basement.
I met a lovely couple from England who took
me to a great café for lunch and directed me to a good shopping spot in the
afternoon where I stocked up on gifts and bought myself a very expensive pair
of shoes… trippen.
Tonight I dined in an Indian restaurant which has been tempting me for days with a beautiful aroma… this is to show you what €10 can get you in Berlin. My bill actually came to €12 as I had a lovely glass of Riesling to accompany it. Needless to
say I barely made a dent in this lavish array – nor did I intend to order so
much – it was simply a set menu for one. Wishing I could share this meal with my
nearest and dearest.
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
Day 13 KULTURFORUM
Each day I have been venturing out into the
wider Berlin but I am realizing just how incredible my local area (Prenzenlauer
Berg) is. For starters it has EXPAT MEAT! But apart from that it is very
cosmopolitan and very Berlin – When I say ‘Very Berlin’ I mean – lots of chic
fashionistas, kids and families galore, old men selling home grown flowers in
the park, pierced and tattooed punks advertising new bars, lovers kissing
everywhere… anything goes.
After my café breakfast (bircher muesli and
Chai tea) – I made my way to the Gemaldegaleire. Its
entrance is tucked away at the back of a complex called the Kutureforum. It was
deserted and I started to think I should have chosen a different way to spend
my day. In the foyer, a couple of people milled about but I pretty much had the
place to myself.
I was wrong to assume that no crowd means
no pleasure. The collection ‘sammlung’
(love that word) in here would rival the best in the world. There are rooms overflowing
with Rembrandt, Titian, Raphael, Rubens, Caravaggio, Dürer, Brueghel, Van Eyck… even Reynolds and Gainsborough. I realize that I am starting to
sound repetitive – such treasures here in Europe… but this gallery is
different. Though I recognize the artists, many of the paintings are not
familiar. But again, this does not mean that they are inferior paintings – in
fact, many of them are amongst the most beautiful works I have seen. I am aware
that I am taking in generalities but I do not know where to begin. Being almost
alone in the gallery increases the intensity – there are no distractions, just
me and the works.
Perhaps I will just mention one painting as
it is in one of the first rooms and it took me by surprise. It is Holbein’s, Maria
als Schmerzensmutter (Our Lady of Sorrows), 1495. It depicts Mary crying
and there is such intensity of emotion in her pleading glare – I feel reluctant
to move on. I have included a brutal crop here – but I wanted to show the eyes
and the tears. Holbein is a beautiful painter - he is emotionally invested in
his subject here and it carries.
Ok just two… Venus with the Organ Player, now this one I do know – though only
through slides. It is thrilling to see Titian’s sensual touch and skilled and
varied handling up close.
I wonder if I picked up an art book from
the 1930s whether many of the works in the Gemaldegallerie would be detailed
there. Whether generally, German galleries, collections and indeed, artists were largely left out of the curriculum when I came to study art.
The war, now 70 years ago, is still deeply felt in Berlin. There are physical scars on the buildings everywhere and the Berliners are not in a hurry to brush them away. For example, there is a church with the steeple blown in half; it has been carefully repaired to stabilize and weatherproof but otherwise it stands in pieces as a reminder of history. There are many memorials to the Jewish people and many empty spaces – empty rooms in galleries – empty concrete squares – a theme that symbolizes the absence of Jews from German society. A friend who lives here mentioned that she has only recently seen people displaying the German flag - there is still such guilt associated with any kind of patriotism.
The war, now 70 years ago, is still deeply felt in Berlin. There are physical scars on the buildings everywhere and the Berliners are not in a hurry to brush them away. For example, there is a church with the steeple blown in half; it has been carefully repaired to stabilize and weatherproof but otherwise it stands in pieces as a reminder of history. There are many memorials to the Jewish people and many empty spaces – empty rooms in galleries – empty concrete squares – a theme that symbolizes the absence of Jews from German society. A friend who lives here mentioned that she has only recently seen people displaying the German flag - there is still such guilt associated with any kind of patriotism.
This remorse does not in any way make good
what happened under Hitler’s reign – but there seems to be an understanding of
the necessity (if not willingness) to face the past. I cannot help but compare
this with my own country’s reaction to the bloody history of Australia. Here, in
this regard, a cultivated ignorance is pervasive, for the most part.
I decide to cook at home today and I
discover why no one does. One organic chicken breast from the local biomarkt
cost €7 and the remainder of my ingredients - another
€7. I make a mediocre rice dish with a fork
and a saucepan (my host doesn’t cook at home and has few cooking utensils and
only one pot). As I scrub the pot I can hear the surrounding restaurants filled
to the brim with Berliners as it is every night of the week. I imagine the
delicious meal I could have purchased for under €10.
The delightful verdict: It is not
economically viable to eat at home.
Monday, May 26, 2014
Day 12 SEX, DEATH & MISO SOUP
I
stayed well out of the red light district while I was in Amsterdam but in
Berlin, sex is ubiquitous.
Today
I visited the impressive Berlinische Gallery in Mitte where they were showing a
major exhibition of the work of American, Dorothy Iannone who basically depicted
society as clusters of genitals over a career that has lasted 50 years. When
room after room of legs-wide-open became tedious, I climbed the crossed
staircase* onto the level of the Berlin artists permanent collection. The
downstairs theme continues… (please excuse the pun). Is it me? Have I been away
for too long?
At
lunch I purchased a copy of ‘EXBERLINER’. As far as I know this is a mainstream
magazine for English speakers in Berlin. The first article is about an English
gay club that has opened. The title of the article is BEST MOUTHFUL OF
GERMAN(S) and it reads like this: “A
little bit nervous when it comes to the legend of the giant German Schwanz?
Having trouble saying ‘Ich finde dich geil’ while gobbling down schnitzel? Fear
not: there’s a new sex party for horny homos who want (or need) to speak
English. Not subscribing to the adage that love is a universal language, EXPAT
MEAT (yes) at Prenzenlauer Berg gay sex club Stahlrohr 2.0 aims to fill a hole
for the Teutonically timid.” Case in point! Ha!
I
spent the afternoon in a completely different dimension at the Jewish Museum. I
barely have words for this. The building itself is completely
disconcerting: narrow corridors file off
in various directions and the floor appears to be slanted (which I believe it
is - ever so slightly). The effect upon the visitor is a sense of vertigo –
intended by the architects to express the sentiment that nothing makes sense
after a tragedy such as the holocaust.
Tears
began when I read this letter from a mother to her son who has managed to
organise passage to South America at the beginning of the war to stay with
relatives there.
“My Darling Son,
Tomorrow I am being evacuated to a
place called Auschwitz. I do not know what will become of me. If by chance you
do not hear from me again, please know that you have been the light of my life
and I am so relieved that you are safe away from here. I will love you always,
Mother”
Another
was a letter from a 10-year-old boy to his aunt. He had been separated from his
parents and has managed to hide, alone, in Nice for one year before he was
caught. He pens this on the train. Looking at the actual letter you can see how
young he is by the immature handwriting, though his words are eloquent.
“The heat, the stench and the crying
of men, women and children who are crowded into this train, defies all
description. We do not know where we are heading. Escape is impossible.”
There
was a little notation from the museum saying that he was taken to Dachau where
he was murdered.
I
had to leave. With tears running down my face, I tried to find my way out of
the labyrinth. The museum is largely underground so that by the time I burst
onto the street I was able to recognise what an incredible museum experience it
was. For a millisecond of my life I gained an insight into the terror of the
holocaust. But escape was possible for me.
I
shifted into a third dimension for the evening when I met up with a friend of a
friend Ilona, Kat. We had spoken on the phone and arranged to meet on a street
corner near Alexanderplatz. She was going home after work to collect her dog,
Winnie, who joined us. Not knowing what Kat looked like I approached a girl
with a dog who was standing on the corner. “Kat?” I said. She looked at her dog
then back at me, frowned a meaningful frown and said “Nein”. I decided to wait
for Kat to approach me.
We
went to a Vietnamese/ Japanese restaurant (apparently this combo is a very
Berlin thing). We did have miso soup and sushi and chatted our faces off. It
was so lovely to meet Kat and I know our paths will cross again. Winnie is
divine and I hope to get more cuddles from her some time soon.
On
this note (aware that this is a very long diary entry)… my host, Eva, is a yoga
teacher, energy healer and editor of Art Berlin. Her apartment is a retreat
with beautiful little shrines in every corner. I feel like the universe is
getting involved in my journey.
*This
is German design ingenuity at its best – the sleek staircase runs diagonally
across the enourmous double-story-high gallery space. The staircases run in
opposing directions. Where the staircases meet (in the centre of the room,
mid-air), there is a landing so you can redirect to any corner of the upper
level (or lower level if you are Christopher Robin – please, someone get that
reference).
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